Paltan Bazaar is busiest after 6 pm, which is exactly when the thelas come out. The market runs downhill from the Clock Tower in a tangle of lanes, and the food follows the crowds.
Start with bun-tikki
Bun-tikki is the local favourite: a soft bun split open, a crisp potato tikki, onions and green chutney. It is cheap, fast and very easy to eat two of.
Then momos
Walk back up towards Ghanta Ghar for momos. Steamed is the classic; fried is the indulgence. The red chutney is the real test.
Go hungry, carry change, and leave room for chai.
Finish with a kulhad of chai and a slow walk through the woollens lanes.
Local tip · Most carts take UPI now, but keep some cash for the smaller stalls.